After painting the Sisters of the Thorn I decided to tackle the only big block of Infantry that I have, that is, the Glade Guard!
It is interesting to mention that the very first model that I painted as a test was a Glade Guard. And after doing that I only painted cavalry models for quite a while so this was a very welcomed change.
I have two units of 11 including a full command group. Here I show the first block. I have to admit that these took quite a shameful amount of paint despite the mediocre results. I blame it to my inability to paint bright shiny things. Still, getting better elf after elf!
Updated painting recipe
Since I painted the first test model I have improved a little bit my painting recipe to make it faster. At the beginning it took me easily almost 4h for every model because (1) I am a slow painter and (2) not used to paint bright colours so I needed to redo many of them with multiple layers. I like to think I got a bit better at it so now it takes me on average 2h per model, slightly longer for champions, always below 3h even for cavalry - which is good for me!
The colours and steps are almost the same as the ones show in the test model, but slightly updated.
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| skin |
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| greens |
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| leather, wood and golds |
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| I almost forgot about these two |
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| used for metals |
I usually paint it in the same order, base colors, clean it up, shadows, highlights, details and lastly glazes.
Base colors
- skin goes first: thin layer of Beige red
- paint base color of hair: dark brown, dark yellow, orange, grey
- cover all areas of darker green with flat green (!! this is a change, it looks much better with flat green than with goblin green as I used before)
- cover all areas of lighter green with fall green from Scalecolor (SC-48)
- paint boots and wood with charred brown
- paint leather with flat brown
- if lots of leather / wood and so on in the same miniature, change a bit using chocolate brown as well
- paint all golden areas with Bloodstone from P3
- paint all metals with either German Grey or Night Blue (depending on the shade I want, black/grey or blue)
- if there are rocks use german grey as base
- if there are animals on the base use enchanted blue as base
Shadows
- glaze Charred Brown on top of the skin focusing on face and chest, these are elves, not dwarves, so no need to have very strong deep shadows
- glaze prussian blue on every light green area, focusing on deepest areas
- glaze hexed lichen on every dark green area, focusing on deepest areas
- if the miniature has a lot of foliage (like the Scouts) use a thinned down version of Coelia Greenshade to cover all foliage and make sure the areas in between leaves are dark green
- add a thin line of pure charred brown for darkest shadows on the golden areas
Highlights
- for the skin
- paint most of it with beige red
- paint the eyes with ivory and a dot of black
- highlights go with pale flesh (the skin is now done!)
- highlight the hair with a lighter version of the base colour (avoid drybrush if possible)
- for the leather
- highlight the leather with charred brown + beige red and then for final light a bit of ivory or bone white to the mix
- in general, highlight all leather by mixing a bit of beige brown then bone white to the base colour
- for the wood
- highlight wood with charred brown + beige brown and bone white for final light.
- wash all wood with a thinned down version of flat green to give it a green tint
- for the goldens
- mix Bloodstone with Parasite brown and cover most of it leaving the shadow and another layer of the previous colour
- then use pure Parasite brown and do the same
- then add ice yellow to the mix and do the same
- lastly, use pure ivory for a few dots of light
- for the dark greens
- use flat green for most of it leaving the deepest areas with the lila tint
- use lime green for highlights
- use ice yellow for drawing patterns and some extreme lights (this last light is only for characters)
- for the light greens
- use fall green SC-48 and cover most of it
- mix SC-48 with bone white for some highlights
- for the metals
- use neutral grey for first light
- then cover everything except a thin layer with wolf grey
- repeat with ivory (optional, depending on side of blade)
- last lights with pure arctic white
- if the metal is blue, do the same but with night blue and adding more and more ivory
- for the rocks, if any
- use neutral grey for highlights
- use wolf grey for final highlights
- wash the lower part of it with flat green to give a green tint
- if animals or decoration (e.g. standard) done with enchanted blue
- mix a bit of ivory for a couple of highlights
- the eyes can go with ice yellow or ivory
Glazes
- Glaze metals with flat green if needed






